This September, I went with University of Nottingham Mountaineering on their much anticipated expedition to Norway. Returning to the same location as last year with the aim of cleaning up the debris of a 1950’s glacier survey camp, we had a twelve person team which included two members of the 1959 glacier survey expedition.
Background
I have previously written a post as to last year’s expedition on which we located the site of a UoN 1950’s glacier survey camp, [it can be seen here]. This year the aim was to return with a larger team to clean up the site. We also invited John and Derek to accompany us; they last visited the site 56 years ago, although they have previously made several attempts to return.
John and Derek had been members of a student team from the University of Nottingham which conducted surveys of Tunsbergdalsbreen glacier in Norway in 1958 and 1959.
A large quantity of stores had been left at the site and, given that the area is now in part of the Jostedalsbreen National Park, it was felt important to retrieve the debris and return the site to pristine condition.
Arrival in Norway and Glacier training
With a similar plan to that of last year, we would first visit the Glacier museum before doing a two day glacier training course. After the training course we would meet John and Derek and set out for the 1950’s glacier survey camp.
Friday 4th & Saturday 5th September
Having spent the previous evening with eight of the other expedition members, packing and distributing the provisions and equipment, we flew from Heathrow to Bergen. We met Matt (the 10th mountaineering club member) at the airport and collected our three vehicles. Having bought extra supplies at the supermarket we drove to Fjærland and camped near the Glacier Museum. As is typical of journeys in Norway this involved many long tunnels, high passes and a ferry crossing.
At the museum we met with John, the manager. We had a tour and picked up the helicopter bags in which we would collect the debris.
After a morning at the museum we drove to the Bretun lodge in Krundalen, which is a side valley of Jostedalen, near Gjerde. The next day we had glacier training, and we sorted equipment. Heating an old knife on my stove, with the help of Ben and some others we cut about 20 new prusik loops, so that everyone would have two each.
Sunday 6th & Monday 7th September
For the glacier training we split into three groups, two of similar ability and one covering more a advanced syllabus. As Ben, Claire and I had a two day course last year we did a more the advanced course and were joined by Jess who also had previous glacier experience. As we were happy with our guide Tshering Pande Bhote (IFMGA) last year, we requested the same guide again. The other two guides, Jyamchang Bohte and Pasang Tenzing Sherpa, were also Nepalese.
The training was on the Nigardsbreen, the same location as last year, but it has convenient access, and is heavy featured, which provides a good location for the training.
We quickly practised taking and tying coils, before spending most the day practising movement across the heavy crevassed ice and refining our technique. This involved the four of us all moving together and using running belays; for some obstacles we would stop and take in and then pay out the rope for the others. We took it in turns to lead, and also swapped who was tied in the middle, so that everyone tried each position. At times it felt like ice climbing with one axe but none of it was pitched and in fact tackling the steeper terrain in such a way builds confidence in oneself and the team. When moving together it is important to have confidence in and know the ability of your companions as if one falls it could easily pull the others off. Using only one axe also forces you to focus on foot work and place crampons carefully.
One incident did that occur: I had given Tshering my camera to take photos of us whilst we climbed. We heard an ‘oops’ expression and looked up to see Tshering straddling a crevasse but with my camera bag open upside down. The camera and spare lens had fallen out! Luckily he was able to retrieve it and no damage occurred.
In the evening we finalised our meal plans for the expedition and divided up the expedition food into meals, removed any excess packaging, and repackaged some foods such as porridge and rice into group meal portions.
The next day we practised a few crevasse rescue methods along with the other two groups. After lunch we headed off to find some ice climbing. Tshering encouraged me to lead but I let him go first. After each climbing the route on a top roping, I had a go at leading. At the end of the steeper section I had a rest on one of my leashes but managed not to fall Ben and Jess also did a lead each just to the side of where I had climbed. At the end of the day we set off quickly to get back in time to meet the others.
In the evening we divided up the food and group kit and packed our expedition rucksacks. With the amount of supplies we had it became apparent it would be easier to porter the supplies in two trips.
Trek to the 1950’s Glacier survey camp
Tuesday 8th to Thursday 10th September
Claire drove off in the morning with Madz (our camera woman) to the local airport to pick up John and Derek. The rest of us set off in bright sunshine from the Bretun Lodge towards the Sheppard’s huts (Sæter huts) in the Røykjedøla hanging valley. We would each have to make a second ascent to porter all of our supplies up. After the first round trip, I drove off with Kayleigh to buy some more fuel for our stoves. Three shops later we had the extra 3 litres we wanted. By the time we got back John and Derek had already gone ahead with the others. We walked up to the huts with the remainder of supplies and found the others had already set up camp. That night we ate sweet potato curry and lentils.
The next morning was again clear, with blue sky and sunshine; we packed up and set off for a second camp. The team split into two groups, one walking with John and Derek and the other doing two portering trips to the lakes. The portering team went first to drop off supplies and also scout the route ahead.
I walked with John and Derek most of the way to the lakes. After lunch I set off ahead to drop off my stuff at the designated point and head back to help the others portering. When I caught up with them they had already picked up the rest of the supplies from Camp 1 and were on their way back to the lakes. They had heavy packs so I helped lighten their load and filled mine.
We all regrouped at the lakes and decided we would have enough time to tackle the first snow slope. There were two teams roped up with John and Derek on separate ropes. Putting crampons on and tying in took some time and we set off at about 15:00. I was roped up with Derek and we made slow but steady progress traversing from side to side up the snow slope.
Those who had not been on the roped teams moved faster but had to go back down for a second trip portering more supplies.
We set up camp on the rock and snow at the top of the slope and slightly above some ponds of water. Where there was room we pitched tents, some on the flat rocks and the others, including mine, a short distance away on a rise where the snow was flatter.
That night we had chilli con carne (‘beanfeast’ with rice). Whilst sat outside to our surprise and excitement we saw the Northern Lights, Aurora Borealis. Derek was the first to notice them; there was a long steak of green and later red ribbons as well across the sky.
Unfortunately by the time I had thought the get my camera and found some settings which might have worked the display had finished.
The next morning I got up early to go back down to the lakes. Not everything had been brought up the day before and many of items had been left there were mine. Ben went with me and between the two of us we were able to bring it all back to Camp 2.
The others then set off up the second snow slope which was shorter but as steep whilst I had a quick wash in one of the pools. I was able to catch the last few as they reached the top of the snow slope. We carried on traversing the 1576 m high point “Alan” (as named in the 1950’s survey) to reach a rock island in the snow. We left our bags here and set off looking for the best way down to the glacier. We managed to find a route that stayed on the snow and minimised travel across the rocks and boulders which John and Derek found more difficult. After lunch we split into two parties, one heading with John and Derek to the glacier edge, and the second returning to Camp 2 to collect more supplies.
We then split into three teams and roped up to cross the glacier. As we did not know if the glacier would be crevassed we stashed some items in order to lighten our bags. I roped up with Shane and Derek, and we set off last. Walking into the low sun we crossed the glacier following the other teams. This year the crevasses were filled by the snow cover and there were only a few signs of them. We reached the ‘battleship’ rock where the others were waiting before leading them to the cairn above the 1950’s base camp. We unroped and proceeded to the camp.
John and Derek congratulated us on reaching the site and we gave the others a quick tour.
As we had earlier left some supplies above the glacier on the far side, four of us, Matt, Ben, Dakota and I, went back with light rucksacks to collect them. We picked these up and returned to the 1950’s glacier survey camp. Shane had pitched our tent for us.
Clean-up of the camp
Friday 11th September
The next day the weather was a little more overcast but still good. We started cleaning up the debris of the 1950’s survey camp. A lot of the rubbish had been put into two pits, although large amounts were also scattered about.
We dug down into the pits, removing the rubbish and putting it into the helicopter bags. This required working in teams forming a chain to pass the debris along to the helicopter bags. Others helped crush the large empty tins so that we could pack the bags efficiently.
Initially we had put one of the helicopter bags near our tents but when it was part full Ben, Matt, Shane and I moved the bag down to the lower tier carrying it on some of the aluminium poles. The other mainly laughed as we struggled.
By the end of the day we had managed to clear up the majority of the rubbish and almost fill the two helicopter bags.
The site of the 1950’s Stevenson screen weather station was also found with the turf still growing.
During the day I also took the opportunity to set-up and run and few time lapse photo series. [They can be seen here].
Saturday 12th & Sunday 13th September
The next day it was grey, overcast, and there was constant rain. The large trap was set up as a shelter, using the natural rock and aluminium poles. Two sides were formed using a rock outcrop and a third using rocks and the tarp.
In the afternoon Ben, Matt, Jess and I went to look at possible routes down to the glacier. This was a secondary objective of the expedition if in the future further survey of this part of the glacier is to be carried out it is important to know the best way down. We found a large ravine that appeared a potential route down to the glacier, but we decided to come back the next day to test this route.
The next day had similar weather again; we looked over the camp for more hidden rubbish under rocks or in cracks. In the afternoon Ben and I went down the ravine to the glacier. The route starts as a snow slope which enters the ravine, the gorund soon became a steep with loose scree and boulders interspersed with patches of grass. We scrambled down until reaching the edge of the ice; we then scrambled along the boulders at the cliff edge until will reached the edge of the promontory. This let us see towards the centre of the glacier over the edge had been raised up and was heavy creased in places. We returned to the camp by the same route to report our findings.
Next we decided to investigate some debris we had found – we were curious as to why something had been covered in wood and metal bars. We speculated that it must be ‘buried treasure’ and enthusiastically dug until we hit bedrock; we then expanded the hole, until the penny dropped and we realised this must have been where the 1950’s latrine was.
Trek back
Monday 14th & Tuesday 15th September
As we left the rain was only light but the visibility medium. Crossing the glacier and ascending over the ridge was slow, cold work but we manage to descend all the snow fields and reach the lakes at the bottom. This meant we could camp in a warmer and more sheltered spot than on the snow at Camp 2. From here we continued the descent and searched for a good camp site.
Scouting ahead I found a suitable place to camp, where there was shelter from the wind and the ground sufficiently flat and dry. In fact I think Camp 4 was the most comfortable spot we found all expedition.
At this point the group spilt, with some preferring to walk down the Bretun Lodge and return the next morning.
Whilst setting up camp, Matt was pitching Jess tent when it was blown from him into a small stream nearby. Fortunately they were able to quickly dry it.
As we still had another day’s rations we cooked the soup as a starter and then the dried pasta with cheese sauce, follow by couscous and hot drinks.
Then next morning the weather was dry and bright again. We packed up and the others returned to help; we then descended the hanging Røykjedøla valley to the Shepherds’ huts and then made our way along the path through the woods back to Bretun lodge.
We then drove the short distance to the Gjerde site camp where we pitched out tents.
Rest days and flight back
Wednesday 16th to Friday 18th September
We sorted our kit out before visiting the Breheimsenteret museum in front of Nigardsbrevatnet. This has a good display on glaciers, climate, and local flora, fauna and history; it also has an excellent view towards the Nigardsbreen.
In the evening went to the Jostedal hotel for dinner to celebrate the success of our expedition.
The next morning I was woken by my phone ringing. I noticed it was one of our group so my first reaction was to shout to them “Why are you calling?” before realising they had set off early for the airport. They had accidentally picked up the wrong passport – Ben’s – but also wanted to know if theirs was still in the van glove box. I looked and it was still there. Ben agreed to go to the airport and swap passports so they had the correct ones.
When Ben returned we finished packing up and then drove to see the Glacier museum and meet with John Brekke and Pål Gran Kielland to report on our expedition and also have some more waffles.
I had to drive back to Gjerde as I had forgotten to pack my mountain boots and so had to drive back to collect them. On the way back I stopped to take some photos and to go see a waterfall. The others either went for a walk in the nearby mountains or walked into the book houses. We then spent the night back in Bøyum Camping.
The next day we made our way to the airport arriving early and had an uneventful flight home. We were very pleased with how the expedition went.
No one got sick, food was a success, and the plan was good. The weather was initially very favourable and later added to the challenge at times but did not stop us.
Finally and most importantly we safely returned with the full team.